Let’s measure one at the length of this sweatshirt. Mark that on paper. Measure from neck to the length and mark that on paper. Take measurements from shoulder to bust points and the bus girth on a bus line. Measure one out of four of the bust measurement plus three centimeters for allowance. Draw a line measuring from underarm to the length and mark that measurement on the lash line – two centimeters measure from armhole to armhole—Mark half of it on the paper. Then measure from the shoulder edge to the neck and Mark that on paper. Drop two centimeters from that line, measure shoulder width and mark it on paper, drawing the curved line to create a neckline of 12.

The curved line from underarm to shoulder line to create an armhole mark one out of four the bust measurement plus three centimeters for allowance and draws aside the line, which is the same as at the front panel. Take measurements from the armhole to the armhole at the back. Mark half of it on the paper, measure from shoulder to the length and from leg bone to the length and transfer those measurements to the paper. Measure from the neck bone to the shoulder edge and market on paper drop two centimeters from that line and mark shoulder-width Joe an armhole at the neckline.

Join shoulder edges and join sidelines. Split them and join those two points. Measure how long the new line is the vertical diameter, which is needed for the sleeve pattern. Measure sleeve length marketed measurement on paper from the deadline. Mark half of the vertical diameter. Read those lines and draw a line in the middle measuring the armhole at the front and back pattern pieces.

Transfer those measurements to the sleeve to create a sleeve head, measure the wrist and add 8 centimeters for allowance. Join bottom points with side sleeves. Let’s make trousers pattern, take measurements from the waist to the bottom market measurements on paper. Measure seat height and market measurement on paper done by 19 centimeters from the waistlines. Split those lines and draw a line in the middle. Take hip measurements and mark half of it on a paper hip line, and also, the waistline joins those points and finds the width.

I tried following this formula, marking their calculation to the front and back panels. I didn’t have enough width on the paper, so I stuck small pieces to extend it. Please find a new line with this formula and mark it on paper, then the middle line right to the bottom rate the sideline on two centimeters and raise the back line on four centimeters. Go inside on two and a half centimeters and draw a Crouchback seam. Get a center-back line with a side point. Mark inside two and a half centimeters at the front and join the front with the side. Measure how long is your new line. Take measurements of your waist, take away from that different measurement split to the sides, and don’t new sidelines. Draw a curved line to create a garage seam at the front.

Also at the back, mark ankle bleeds plus four centimeters for allowance. Join bottom points with crotch points to create a step theme at the knee line, go inside on two centimeters from both sides and draw new lines because I will add a wide belt at the waistline. I need to cut an extra from the waist so my trousers won’t be too high-waisted. I mark four centimeters inside and draw a new waistline. I highlight the exact lines which are needed to be cut it now. I need to make a belt pattern. It’s just half of the waist measurement and 10 centimeters in width. I added an extra seam to create holes for the lace inside the belt. Later make sure the belt matches the waist. Now a make-ups, for the street, I made them a bit smaller than the sleeve bottom# the weight is 10 centimeters.

Measure the neck at the front and back panels, reduce the neckline binding by 10% and cut the pattern 5-centimetre suite at the trousers’ front panel. I added pockets marked inside 4 centimeters and marked 14 centimeters on the bias to the sidelines. Put a piece of paper underneath and follow the shape around. Add two lines to create a pocket lining. Do one more of the same pattern piece but dream of following the pocket line. Also, dream the picket line at The trousers’ front panel is a fabric I will use to make my tracksuit. It’s a double-need cotton fabric with a little bit of stretch first. I will cut my most significant pieces with a one-centimeter seam allowance around the panel. Then I will cut the rest of the beetles with the one-centimeter similar ones.

Here are all my panels. They are all double-layered front and back sweatshirt details folded. Let’s start with all pieces together. Take this sweatshirt panel and lay them onto another. So the shoulder seams for sewing this fabric I will use are mostly an overlock machine with four threads and two needles. This way of sewing is typically used for stretchy knitted fabrics; then, I’m going to sew the neck binding to the sweatshirt. I folded it in half, pinned it to the neckline, and then sewed it on an overlock. The overlock stitch at the back needs to be covered with small binding; it will look nicer and cleaner.

I’m just holding the other sides and pinning it to the seam and putting the stitch, then pledge to teach at the edge fold the binding around the seam allowance and take it by hand stream extra fabric and put another stitch to fix it all together, take away, take stitch do de teach at the neckline fraud at this stage, it’s good to give a press to the neckline a laid flat and

carefully iron it to give it a neckline nice and neat look. Take the sleeves and pin them to the bodice, sew them, and press the sleeve seams while they open. It’s always easier to flip the sweatshirt inside out, pin the side seams, sleep, and so take the cuffs. I already saw mine pin them to the sleeves and saw it at the bottom, I want to leave a rough edge, so I’m just going to fold it up and put the stitch to fix this theme. Take the trousers’ front panel and put the fusing tape on the bias edge. Take the pocket lining and the facings, which I got bigger by three centimeters, take the pocket spacing and first, over-lock it, then put it on full piece lining and sew it on top, take the other side of the pocket lining and sew it to the trousers dream half of the seam allowance to avoid thickness at the seam make the flat stitch at the lining side fold the lining and make a top stitch.

Put the other side of the pocket lining on top and stitch the lining together to make a stitch at the top to stick pockets together with the trousers. Lay the back panel on top and sew from each side. Turn out one panel and put it inside another panel, pin the step seam and solve it. Takes the belt and so the tiny piece to the belt but leaves the small holes as they seem to put the lace inside the belt letter. I didn’t have a wide elastic, so I will use double narrow elastic and sew them together using a zig-zag stitch. This is how it should look like. Then I sew to end together would be like ticking inside the bed and so the edges pin bow to the trousers and solve it using safety pins, put the lace inside the belt through the holes at the bottom, I turn the hem twice inside out make the back stitches at the seams don’t forget to give it a good press at the end here is the result.