Yarn Count Selection For Knitting


Yarn Count

Count is numerical expression, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. Also indicate the relationship between length and weight (the mess per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. Definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn”

Types of yarn count:

i)             Indirect count – English, Worsted, Metric

ii)            Direct count – Tex, Denier, Spindle.

Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted & linen (wet spun) etc.

Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fiber, jute, silk etc.

GSM:

The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile engineer to understand and production of fabric. GSM means “Gram per square meter” that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.

Count selection in knitting:

Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used to produce fabric of different gram mage. There is also a need to calculate optimum production of knitting machines. It is the job of knitting manager to do certain calculation for proper use of machines and production of fabric according to the demands of the customer.

Relation between count and GSM are given below:

Single jersey:

110 – 120 GSM = 40/s, 36/s

130 – 150 GSM = 34/s, 32/s & 30/s

160 – 170 GSM = 26/s, 28/s (PC, CVC)

180 – 210 GSM = 24/s, 20/s, 18/s

220 – 240 GSM = 20/s

PK/LACOST/1X1 RIB:

150 – 170 GSM = 34/s

180 – 200 GSM = 30/s

210 – 225 GSM = 26/s

230 – 250 GSM = 24/s

250 – 270 = 20/s

2X1 RIB:

220 – 230 GSM = 30/s

240 – 250 GSM = 26/s

260 – 280 GSM = 24/s

INTERLOCK

22 Gauge – 24 Gauge

200 – 220 = 40/s

230 – 250 = 34/s

240 – 260 = 30/s

260 – 275 = 26/s

SINGLE JERSEY WITH LYCRA 5%:

150 – 160 GSM = 34/s

170 – 190 GSM = 30/s

200 – 210 GSM = 26/s

220 – 240 GSM = 24/s

FLEECE:

250 GSM = 20/s, 30/s (20: 80)

300 GSM = 10/s, 26/s (30:70)

Select Yarn Count for Your Specific Fabric GSM

Yarn count selection for specific fabric GSM is technical and common task for textile engineers. By using formula textile engineers can easily select the actual yarn count for knot fabrics. These can be varying deferent fabric types. 

Single Jersey:

If, the require fabric GSM is 150

Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22

= (-0.141) X (150) + 50.22

= -21.15 + 50.22

= 29.07

So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 150 GSM single jersey fabric

Interlock:

If, the require fabric GSM is 210

Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56

= (-0.206) X (210) + 80.56

= -43.26 + 80.56

= 37.3

So, we need yarn count 38/s to knit 210 GSM Interlock fabrics 

Pique:

If, the require fabric GSM is 230

Yarn count = (-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16

= (-0.146) X (230) + 57.16

= -33.58 + 57.16

= 23.58

So, we need yarn count 24/s to knit 230 GSM Pique fabric 

1*1 Rib:

If, the require fabric GSM is 200

Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57

= (-0.123) X (200) + 54.57

= -24.6 + 54.57

= 29.97

So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 200 GSM 1×1 Rib fabrics

Double Lacoste:

If, the require fabric GSM is 240

Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36

= (-0.167) X (240) + 64.36

= -40.08 + 64.36

= 24.28

So, we need yarn count 24/s to knit 240 GSM Double Lacoste fabrics

Lycra 1×1 Rib:

If, required fabric GSM is 220

Yarn Count = (-0.119) GSM + 59.12

= (-0.119) x 220 + 59.12

= -26.18 + 59.12

=32.94

So, we need yarn count 32/s to knit 220 GSM 1×1 lycra Rib fabrics

Lycra 2×2 Rib:

If, the require fabric GSM is 240

Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62

= (-0.108) X (240) + 56.62

= -25.92 + 56.62

= 30.07

So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 240 GSM Lycra 2×2 Rib fabrics


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